The Act 1x4
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Highly reflective non-glare matte white polyester powder coat bonded to phosphate-free, multi-stage pretreated metal. All parts painted after fabrication to facilitate installation, increase efficiency, and inhibit corrosion.
Textured matte white polyester TGIC powder coat bonded to phosphate-free, multi-stage pretreated metal. All parts painted after fabrication to facilitate installation, increase efficiency, and inhibit corrosion.
High-quality mid-power LED board. L70 > 50,000 hours per IES TM-21. Low-voltage DC fixture, to be fed by Class 2 power supply. Tunable White products use LEDs of multiple CCTs and may produce a perceptibly different shade of white from single-CCT products at the same CCT. All CCTs are within 3 MacAdam ellipses.
High-quality mid-power LED boards. L70 >50,000 hours per IES TM-21. Tunable White products use LEDs of multiple shade of white from single- CCT products at the same CCT. All CCTs are within 3 MacAdam ellipses.
\"Act of God\"Episode InformationSeason 1 (Lone Star)Episode 4AirdateFebruary 3, 2020Viewers6.39 millionWritten byMolly Green & James LefflerDirected bySharat RajuEpisode ChronologyPreceded by\"Texas Proud\"Followed by\"Studs\"\"Act of God\" is the fourth episode of the first season of 9-1-1: Lone Star. It aired on February 3, 2020.
THIS SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN GRAVY IS AN AMAZING PRODUCT, and has to be tasted to understand why customers will travel miles to get a Chicken Gravy Chip, usually along with some fried chicken coated in BJ Southern Fried Coating.
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DESCRIPTION The FK is a flange kit for recessed troffers.The kits act as T-Bar frames to support a recessed troffer in wood, drywall, or plaster ceilings. From the room side flange kits mimic the appearance of T-Bars in a baked white enamel finish.
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With the ATC AC7830, you can split 1 HDMI signal into 4 signals. This way, you can connect a laptop to 4 different monitors, for example. This splitter supports the HDMI 1.4a version. This allows you to transfer 3D signals and watch a resolution of up to 4K with 30Hz, or Full HD with 50Hz. For the optimal image display, you use a High Speed HDMI cable of up to 5m.
I am hanging a barn door inside my house. I'm using a steel hardware set (rail, hangers to roll on the rail, bracket to mount the rail). The door plus hardware will be a bit shy of 100lb. The rail will be about 90\" long (opening about 42\").
I'll use a 1x4 between the rail and the wall, secured to the wall studs with about 5 lag screws at irregular intervals up to 20\" or so; the rail will be secured to the 1x4 with 6 stainless-steel supports (supplied with the hardware kit) at regular 16\" spacing.
Is PVC lumber suitable for this I think the main issue would be the loading on the fasteners which secure the 1x4 to the wall studs (1/4\" lag bolts) and which secure the rail to the 1x4 (#10 or #13 wood screws); the loading would be \"twisting\", pulling sideways and downwards on the fasteners.
Generally speaking, synthetic boards outperform wood on every metric at room temperature. Your door is not particularly heavy, about 25lb/foot, or more likely 50-100lb variable load on each of 2 rollers. Note that you should not screw deeper than 1.25\" into a wall that you don't know the contents of, and 1\" is safer.
Personally, I'd use an excessive amount of screws, not necessarily something so big I'd call it a lag bolt, to secure the 1x4 to the wall. 2 or 3 screws per stud on 16\" studs should be nicely excessive with common #10 wood screws and the general 80lb per screw rule. Not difficult to countersink for a flush surface either. As far as securing the rail to the mounting board, again it's probably cheaper to do something excessive than calculate what is necessary. You don't need to hit studs. Thats the point of the mounting board. Honestly 16\" spacing is probably fine although doubling fasteners on the ends and or using a washer to reduce the amount the rail can \"torque\" on the screws may be a good idea if the rail is a softer metal like aluminum.
When you're worried about torque and you don't know engineering calculations, just look at the side view of the object and consider what the longest lever it has available to pull on the fastener is, and consider how to either reduce it or give the fastener a lever to use against it. That said, What will it cost you to put a screw every 6-8\" and simply guarantee an excessively strong, durable mounting
Edit: Based on Isherwood's comment, I did a bit more research, and it appears the product you are asking about is not what I would call synthetic lumber as it is not meant to replace lumber in function. The product I believe you're asking about is \"trim\", meaning it is meant only to meet or exceed the structural properties of trim in its use case. It appears the correct terminology for what I was referring to is Structural Plastic Lumber or Structural Composite Lumber.
That said I thoroughly examined the product in question and it does appear to be more than adequate for your use case. It is indeed a type of foam, although rather than \"glorified\", it might be better to use the term \"extremely strong\" so that people get a good picture of what it is compared to what most people think of when they hear \"foam\". It is not as rigid as equal dimension wood, but with 20\" studs, your maximum lever length to use against it is 10\" against two fixed points. It takes a tremendous amount of force to produce any significant twisting deflection over 20\" of the product, and fighting two levers half as long should be roughly 4x as difficult. Add to this that once fixed in two points, the product must stretch to bend between them. Once screwed securely to studs, this product will be adequately rigid, especially given the added rigidity provided by the necessarily C shaped rail. The one caveat I see is that in your comments you reveal you don't believe the wall to be straight. Easy enough to check, but if it's more than 1/8\"-1/4\" deflection over 4f, I would have reservation about using the product without appropriate shims to straighten it, even with the rail providing tremendous rigidity. That said, it is not particularly hard to deform a wood 1/4 that much over that length either. Two screws per stud should easily provide enough force. I would regard the straightness of the wall as a separate problem to be measured and evaluated.
Screw pullout is very respectable even with normal wood screws and no pre drilling. With an appropriately chosen wide thread screw, pullout strength will be fine although personally rather than a single screw in the center every 16\" as your product seems to be made for, I'd consider using two screws countersunk and spaced vertically from eachother to give the screws more leverage against railing twist. In honesty the 16\" spacing is probably carefully calculated to be more than adequate, but you're doing the work yourself, so for a one time additional labor cost of 0$ and the low cost of some extra screws and possibly a countersink that you can use for many projects to come, I tend to fairly often double up fasteners. The \"Normal\" downward forces that the door places on the railing will produce a very spread out and limited \"tilting\" or \"twisting\" force, compressing against the backing and pulling against the fasteners. If one day your kids are horsing around and bodycheck the door or some such, using the entire length of the door as a lever against the railing, you may be glad you used extra mounting precautions. The best you can do is to mount it securely enough that the method of failure is either deformation of the rail or unmounting of the door.
Screw bend test was fine as well. I was able to bend the shaft of a 3\" screw protruding two inches from the product without damage to the hole that would decrease holding strength. The amount of effort it took to mess up the hole by repeatedly \"wiggling\" the screw was quite large and repetitive. 59ce067264